Company Hino is representing to PDF set of the workshop manuals for engine, chassis, body and electrical system for Hino truck 2002 year, series FA and FB. Repair manual English. HINO TRUCKS PUBLICATIONS AVAILABLE ONLINE: Manuals and CD ROMS: Factory Repair Manuals, Owner Manuals, ETMs, Wiring Diagrams, Body Builder.
Do you have some special knowledge or a handy hint? Send it to Read the before reading further Directory. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Air Cleaner Filter Found huge differences in cost. Repco sell Ryco HDA 5735 - cost $264.00 (10% off for RAA) Fleetguard AF25231 - cost $68.00 Kevin Ed - Multispares sell them for 47.95 Air Con Gas Originally the RB145A buses would have been charged with 'R12' which is a hydrocarbon gas. As part of the import process these should have been converted to 'R134a' which is still the most common gas used in Australia.
The downside to this is that R134a will slowly leak, requiring a top up after some years. Australian supplied buses (RB145K) would have been charged with R134a originally. Bob Wood Air Con Lable Sometimes there will be a label on the filter, which is inside the vented panel on the RH side behind the front wheel. Bob Wood Engine Serial Number Read the owners manual! Page 16 Air Tx valve change When my aircon stopped working the first diagnosis found a leak on the compressor.
After having it rebuilt with all new seals it still leaked, indicating a blockage in the system which proved to be the Tx valve. Now the Tx valve is the original component around which Hino built the bus! It's on the upper side of the LH end of the 'hump' aircon unit. The simple and lowest cost solution was to cut a hole in the roof (in the right place) to enable the valve to be changed. The alternative would have been to remove the entire aircon unit from the hump. All now working as it should with rebuilt compressor, new Tx valve, new filter and new gas.
The cover required a little hand-beating to get the curves right and a gasket to seal it. A couple of coats of paint now to finish it off. Cheers Bob Engine Serial Number Read the owners manual!
Page 16 Vehicle Identification Number Read the owners manual! Page 16 Isolation switch There are two. One is on the right at the bottom of the dash, a pull in / out and turn at same time; The other inside the engine bay, on the left hand side on a panel, a flip up / down switch. Use this when working on the engine to protect yourself. V Belts I just replaced all the V belts and have the Gates part numbers as follows: Vacuum pump - Gates XL9355 - 12mm x 911mm Alternator & A/c - 2 x Gates TR24538 - 17mm x 1380mm Power Steering - 2 x Gates XL7455 - 10mm x 1171mm Total cost from Statewide Bearings (Gates Distributor) $100.65 Best regards Bob Engine cutout (mystery solved) Engine cut outs solved! Our 1987 RB145 has an engine stop system using a vacuum actuator which is controlled by a solenoid valve. The bus has always started easily, run well and give good fuel consumption with the one embarrassing and potentially dangerous limitation that at 2700-2800rpm under load, the engine would suddenly cut out.
It would then require a wait of some 10 seconds or so before it could be re-started. Once re-started, performance was completely normal. As well as consulting with other RB145 users, engine specialists, auto-electrical specialists, diesel specialists etc. I have spent many, many hours poring over the manuals and circuit diagrams for this bus, trying to understand the logic of what was happening. Testing proved that this cut-out did not occur while free revving in neutral, which led me to study the wiring diagrams, where the only circuit that included the neutral switch and rpm pick-up was the warm-up program. Disconnecting the warm-up controller made no difference so after numerous other electrical tests the engine stop solenoid was rewired to be powered directly from the ignition switch. Again, no change.
Since there are two solenoid valves in close proximity I also checked the idle-up solenoid in case there was some unwanted interaction. That just about ruled out the electrics as the culprits. I then went on to study the vacuum system, again could not find any possible cause for what was happening. In such a generally simple engine system, we were running out of possible villains.
Further road testing showed that by running downhill in a lower gear, the engine would spin up to 3000rpm quite happily but then applying the accelerator caused it to cut out immediately. After further consultation with experts it was concluded that the problem had to lie in the injection pump/governor. Further consultations with the fuel injection experts agreed that the pump had to come off for a proper evaluation on the test bench.
So, the injection pump was duly delivered to the FInj. Intensive care department where it was ultimately given a clean, if expensive, bill of health. Talking through the problem with one of their people, he asked about the air piping leading to the turbocharger.
Back home I carried out a very detailed inspection of the entire air system which revealed a tell-tale imprint inside the large rubber moulding that connects directly to the turbocharger. Under high airflow conditions while under load, this rubber moulding was being sucked flat across the air inlet to the turbocharger, cutting off the air supply.
The moulding is available ex Japan at considerable expense ($350+ in 2011) so has now been replaced by an adaption made from a silicon reducing elbow, a piece of mandrel bent aluminium tube and a silicon joiner. The result, perfect. While accelerating I can now let the engine run up to 2900-3000 rpm without fear of an instant cut out, and when necessary, I can keep up with the traffic at 100kmh. (I bet few saw that cause coming.
Excellent write up Bob - Ed) Steering slack / back lash Since I have had my Hino, I have been bothered by what I felt was excessive backlash in the steering. By chance I discovered that the backlash is adjustable - so I did it. Made a world of difference to the 'feel' of the drive and controllability of the vehicle on the highway. If anyone is experiencing similar problems contact me and I will point you in the right direction. Steve McDonald That’s good you have been able to improve things. Have you visited Ron’s website? You will find it contains both workshop manual and parts manual for the RB145 with full details of the steering box adjustment you have done.
The trap with this type of steering box is that if all of the slack is adjusted out in the centre, it can become stiff at the outer ends (full lock). There is also the possibility of play in the sliding shaft that connects the steering wheel to the steering box. Bob Wood Engine mounts Had reason to check my engine mounts and found one had parted. Not sure they were correct parts anyway. Solution was to fit Mackay #A2509 mounts which require slight mod to the engine brackets, ( ). Also, due to the limited space around the RB145 engine, it is necessary to loosely fix mounts to brackets before re-fixing brackets to engine. Then with the jack removed from under the engine, tighten everything.
The mounts are available from most auto parts suppliers for around $70 per pair. One post script. After installation and settling, I found I had to add a 5mm thick packer under each mount to bring the crankshaft pulley bolt in line with the hole in the crossmember. I cut them from 5mm steel plate.
1 x 12mm hole then jigsawed down to make a slot. Bob Wood Expansion Tank The expansion tank, it will never remain full! As the water in the engine heats up it expands, and it must go somewhere. On cooling it contracts, thus the expansion tank empties.
It is ok to go down to say half way or even less, just keep an eye on it and as long as it does not empty, you do not have a problem. And do not open the system more than you need to, you let air in and this causes corrosion, or could do, should not if you have correct additives. Also, you have a low level light and alarm, so wait until it goes off, if it does in short time you have a leak, if not you do not have a problem. I do not look at my water level - at all - until either the alarm / light comes on or I need to change the whole systems water.
Overheating - fans Had trouble overheating going up long steep hills. The trouble was one of the front fans wasn't working which caused the other fan not to work.
They are 12volt fans. One won't work without the other. Do a circuit test. One of the brushes was sticking. Easy to fix and solved the problem.
Brian Door top guide roller This roller will eventually wear out and may cause the door to rattle. No idea where to find a replacement, but it can be made out of a nylon rod on a lathe. Anyone got another option please Brake Pedal Assembly Removal When I came to do this job I found the manual was somewhat lacking. Must have been lost in the translation! Hopefully these notes will make it easier for someone. Bob Wood Auto Cooling Auto Cooling Pty Ltd, Factory 7 / 216 Blackshaws Rd, Altona Nth VIC.
03) 9362 7799 Engine shutoff fails There are many possible reasons for the engine failing to shut off, but a common item to wear and fail is the engine shutoff vacuum operated switch. It can be found on page 19 of the motors workshop manual just to the left and above the number 27, or in. This item needs to be removed, an easy procedure, and the two main parts separated by unbending the retaining lugs. Inside, the rubber diaphragm will be found to have a split.
This can be repaired by using a rubber glue that remains flexible, eg. A shoe repair glue, and placing a thinnish flexible blob over the split. Reassemble and reinstall. This repair will survive for quite some time, and saves you a fortune! Gravel and sand roads When traveling on gravel roads, reduce your speed and reduce tyre pressure. This will substantially reduce the risk of tyre failure, and other damage from flying rocks. On sand, reduced pressure improves traction and reduces sinking.
Be sure to reinflate tyres when back on the seal. Tyre pressures When an RB145 bus fitted as a motorhome is fully loaded, the gross weight will be close to 6 Tonnes. According to tyre charts, front tyres need to be 10 ply minimum and operate at 75 psi (5.17 bar) and rear tyres need to be 12 ply at 85 psi (5.86 bar). (Tyre pressures depend on the make of the tyre so check for your tyres.) However these pressures results in a harsh ride and increases the possibility of tyre damage. It is recommended to have tyre pressures at; front 70 psi (4.83 bar) and rear 75psi (5.17 bar).
For these pressures, 10 ply tyres may suffice. This also improves steering and may reduce sway if your vehicle suffers from this. The increase in fuel consumption is not significant. Links, and (light trucks).
Springs and dampers Hino RB145 buses converted to motorhomes are at the maximum weight for the spring sets, and adding an extra leaf to each spring set dramatically improves the ride, and avoids or reduces bottoming out. Wodonga, Victoria, do an excellent and price competitive job. Atherton, Queensland, possibly do the best job in the country. Not only do they add a leaf to each spring set, but each set is removed and individually retempered. Is the pioneer and leading supplier of Australian designed shock absorbers and suspension components for trucks, buses, 4WD’s and European vans.
Our shock absorbers have been specifically designed for Australian roads and climatic conditions. Powerdown has an extensive distribution network throughout Australia and New Zealand. Phone 02 4949 0000. Front Shock absorber, RT 336. (road train) Rear Shock absorber, RT104M3, heavy duty, non adjustable with bushings to fit Cost $225 per pair (2013) Be sure to check the dampers (shock absorbers) are working, or have them replaced. Windscreens Product # 818991 Air Conditioner V Belts Any one who has had to purchase V belts may have received a shock at the price. Well the other day the air con did not work and I thought it had lost it's gas.
After organising an appointment at an air con fixer place, I decided to check if the engine was still in the housing as it has performed flawlessly for some long time, actually since the last oil change, and lo and behold, the air con belts were not there! Well only the remnants remained. So being computer savvy I decided to look on line and found the first link to be Super Cheap Auto. Yes they had the right size, code 11A1130M and only $19.99 for the pair!!! Not only does the air con work better, I am a happy and cooler man.
Ron PS if any one purchases the belts for the alternator or the steering pump, please pass the code onto Admin, email at top of page - thanks. Bob has written - see Belts - V Belts Air conditioner compressor Air conditioner compressor replacement. Sanden model part number cxs7867, sd7h15 it is a universal type and you will need an adapter plate.
Reading oil dip stick I would like to know how to read the oil dipstick, there are no marks showing low or full however there appears to be a very small slot approximately 25mm long but showing no levels, I am only guessing the bottom of the cutout is low and the top is full but this only a guess and that I do not like. My motor is the W40C-T. I presume they are all similar? Norm Norm, You are right, that is how Hino does the oil levels. You are also right regarding the motor, they are all W40C's and the T is for turbo-charged. Another way to check the oil, when you do an oil change, put on a new filter, add exactly 11 litres, start the engine to fill the oil ways and filter, and then stop, wait a minute for the oil to settle and then check the oil measuring stick, and it should be on the full mark, or top end of the slot.
All the best, and thanks for the question, glad to be able to help. Happy travels. While on the subject of oil, grade to use is 15W40, and change oil and filter every 10,000 km.
At the same time, clean the air filter. Try and grease the nipples every 5,000 km.
RB145 on car license There is a person advertising an RB145A for sale on Gumtree and also advertising that it can be driven on a car licence. Somehow he's had it de-rated to a GVM of 4495kgs to bypass the light rigid driving licence requirements and also the yearly safety inspections. Problem is, as we all know, is that you cannot get a fitted out RB145 under 4500kgs under any circumstances, so if some poor person buys this vehicle believing they can, they will certainly be in trouble if the vehicle is weighed by state transport authorities and worse still, if they are unfortunate enough to have an accident, their insurance may be void (refer to Collyn Rivers latest article in the Wanderer). I would just ask that if you know someone considering a Hino that you please point this out to them so they don't get caught out.
Hino Truck Parts Manual
Cheers, Les Ed comment - the tare weight of the RB145 without the seats is 4495 kg. When fitted out, with full tanks and ready for the road, the GVM is close to 6000 kg. Hino extra radiator The Australian assembled RB145 has an extra radiator behind the air conditioner condenser on the right hand side of the bus. The imported RB145A's don't have this extra radiator and I was wondering if any of these owners have had any overheating issues whilst traveling Oz? I've heard of an owner who added extra cooling for towing but that's all. Perhaps our 'group' can shed some light on whether their vehicles cope ok without the extra radiator?
When I remove my small radiator I was planning on using 'blank off' rubber caps 16mm I think they are, plus hose clamps obviously, to ensure the water flows straight through to the front radiator and back again. Admin - I have driven in 40 degree heat full throttle up the steep central divide mountains in third gear for a long time, and no overheating. The temperature gauge will rise much hotter than normal as per the owners manual until the electric fans start, and right to the top of the normal zone, but this is below the RED zone. I have heard on more than one occasion of owners modifying cooling systems as they believed their units were over heating, but this is not the case.
Photos from Les Trask Bus heater system removal Hi my Hino RB145 has a water pump in front of the left side rear wheel which was for the heater system I think. I have removed the heaters and would like to remove it and the redundant pipes, as I would like to fit a water tank there. Can anyone tell me if this possible? Gary Gary, the water pump and diesel heater unit you are referring to is to heat the engine water system for the bus in the extreme cold of Japanese winters.
It is possible to remove this system in total as well as all the bus interior heaters along with all the pipe work from the engine and return. The electrics need to be disconnected beneath the floor and the terminals protected from the environment by sealing in a plastic bag and securely tied to the chassis.
PS On the other side of the bus is the diesel heater unit to keep the system from freezing in the -30C temperatures of the Japanese winters. This can also be removed. Seal the diesel line that comes from the tank. This line can be used to supply diesel to a diesel heater unit to heat the bus internally to great effect.
Note: the outlet to this line is not at the bottom of the tank, so you can not run out of fuel for the engine, or put another way, the fuel will stop flowing here before the tank is empty, just in case you wonder why the heater stopped when there is still 10 or 15 litres of fuel in the tank - Ron Tubeless tyres After a lot of searching I stumbled over a useful source of 17.5 x 6.00 tubeless rims with the correct 5 stud centres and 127mm offset. These allow the use of 215/75 or 205/80R17.5 tubeless tyres and fully comply with the Hino parts manual. For anyone interested, contact Dave or Nathan at Tyreright, Wangara WA Tel. 08 9302 5055 or info@wangara.tyreright.com.au. They import them by the container load for NW mining use and sell them at $170 each. Cheers Bob Wood. Admin - I asked Bob if he could give an insight into the use of the tyres - here is his reply.
When I bought the bus it was sitting on 17.5 x 5.25 tubeless rims which had 115mm offset and 8mm centre thickness. I now know these were commonly fitted to the somewhat lighter Hino Dutro trucks as well as Toyota Dynas. The tyres were 215/75 Yokohamas on the front and 205/80 Bridgestones on the back and were all in very good condition.
I found it had some tendency to wander and all the usual swaying problems. The swaying was largely tamed by replacing the shock absorbers at both ends – the rears are the Powerdown specials RT104M3 – and anti-roll bar bushes. This is the first bus I have ever driven and is the complete opposite of my normal drive. My research revealed that the rims were the minimum recommended size for the 205/80s but below minimum for the 215/75s and with little published data to work with, I had inflated them to 70psi.
It felt OK, but I had nothing to compare with. With my tyres now fitted to the new rims the tyre place inflated them to 90psi. I have only driven it the 100km home since the new wheels were fitted but it certainly rolls along a little easier and maintains speed with a little less throttle. That may indicate that the 70psi was too low. The wandering also seems to be less, and to me it feels more ‘planted’, although that may be wishful thinking, I’d just parted with a chunk of unbudgeted money:-( The front tyres will now be sitting a little flatter, due to the wider rim, but may take a while to settle and wear to their new format. The track at the front is about the same as it was.
The track at the rear is effectively increased by a few mm due in part to the offset but also the 2mm extra in centre thickness. The outside edge of the rim is just about flush with the body side. There are no conflict problems on the inside.
Overall then the footprint is marginally wider but the tyres are much better supported, lessening the tendency for the tyre to flex sideways relative to the wheel. On my limited experience I am pleased with the result.
Of course, I already had the tubeless tyres so my cost was to replace 6 rims and to buy a complete spare rim & tyre as my spare had been a 16”. Compared with the original spec 7.00R16 on a split rim, the overall rolling diameter is effectively the same but the tubeless tyre will run cooler.
I shall be carrying a repair plug kit which hopefully would allow me to repair a flat without removing the wheel – time will tell. Having spoken with many arms of the wheel and tyre industry over the last few weeks, it is nice to be able to prove wrong those eminent gentlemen who assured me that “you won’t get any”, “they don’t make them”, they wouldn’t be allowed”, “you’ll need all new tyres as well” etc.
I’m sure you’ve also encountered some of these ‘experts’. The responses I got when I asked for feedback showed that many are running 7.00R16s while some have opted for 7.50R16s.
Nobody else had gone tubeless but that choice had already been taken by the previous owner of my bus. Interestingly, the operator of a local school bus contractor runs all of his smaller buses on 215/75s and swears by them. The other gem was that in the Bridgestone range, 205/80s are $300 each, 215/75s are $430 each.