Peugeot Speedfight 2 (2000 - 2010) Written from hands-on experience gained from the complete strip-down and rebuild of a Peugeot Speedfight 2, Haynes can help you understand, care for and repair your Peugeot Speedfight 2. We do it ourselves to help you do-it-yourself, and whatever your mechanical ability, the practical step-by-step explanations, linked to over 900 photos, will help you get the job done right. Regular servicing and maintenance of your Peugeot Speedfight 2 can help maintain its resale value, save you money, and make it safer to ride. Step-by-step maintenance and repairs guides for your vehicle in two formats.
- Peugeot Speedfight 2 2015 Mod Manuale
- Peugeot Speedfight 2 2015 Mod Manual Do Mundo
- Peugeot Speedfight 2 50cc
Over the next days/weeks I will explain the basics of scooter tuning, starting with simple improvements like derestrict a 50cc scooter and later going deeper into engine tuning concepts like flowing or changing the engine timings. Along with that I will also explain which parts should be installed first when starting tuning a scooter and which ones need to be replaced when getting more serious.
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Welcome to Part 1: How to derestrict a 50cc scooter. How to derestrict a 50cc Scooter – On a general note Fast vehicles are dangerous. Derestricting a scooter makes it faster and therefore more dangerous to ride. Always ride within your limits and be aware that you might need a different drivers license when a scooter exceeds a certain speed or engine capacity. Also your insurance might not cover you anymore. Removing restrictions and riding a scooter without having a valid drivers license is illegal. There are heavy fines and you might loose your license when getting caught or involved in an accident!
Why are scooter engines restricted? There are different reasons why scooters are having restrictions applied.
It can be divided into three groups:. Environmental restrictions. To allow for use with a certain drivers license class.
To comply with speed limits and legal requirements Environmental restrictions This can be covered quickly as I only know about the catalyst applied to exhausts. Whilst it does not directly restrict engine speed it is still recommended to remove the catalyst when tuning a scooter. A catalyst has to operate at a high temperature to perform in its intended way. Unfortunately high temperatures should try to be avoided when increasing performance (increasing temperatures equal a loss of energy into heat). The easiest way to remove the catalyst of your scooter is to replace the stock exhaust with an aftermarket model. Alternatively you can attach the exhaust of the same scooter model without catalyst (Minarelli and Piaggio engines have usually equivalent models with a non-cat exhaust). Beware as the stock exhausts are usually much more expensive than an aftermarket part and at the end of the day you will buy an aftermarket exhaust anyways when considering tuning as a serious hobby:) Removing the catalyst from the exhaust is much more difficult as the exhaust needs to be cut open and after removal welded together again.
Whilst this can be done it is usually not worth the effort. Some catalyst exhausts have a hose connected to the transmission housing (Piaggio). This hose is needed to keep the catalyst clean.
When the catalyst exhaust is being replaced this hose should be removed and the hole in the engine block closed. Yasuni Z street legal “RaceLook” exhaust w/o cat Drivers license restrictions Different countries have different laws. Some allow riding a scooter without a drivers license and others have multiple different licenses for various engine sizes. Besides the discussed stock restrictions below there are other restrictions possible that allow you riding a scooter with a drivers license it was originally not designed for. For example here in Germany we have a very popular license class that allows riding 50cc mopeds with the age of 15 already. However the top speed of the vehicle needs to be restricted to 25km/h to be compliant.
These restrictions are usually provided by third parties which means it is not a restriction applied by the manufacturer of the scooter but a kit bought from a company that specialises in restricting scooters to comply with local drivers license laws. The kit mostly contains of an electronically limited CDI and some other parts (removal of the pillion seat, cylinder head spacer to decrease compression, etc). These restrictions are not stock and therefore need to be installed by the vendor of the scooter. This also means that all installed and replaced parts are yours. When buying an already restricted scooter make sure to receive all the parts needed to derestrict the scooter again. Unlike with the stock restrictions, these custom restrictions are explained in detail in your operating license. This makes it easier to find and remove the restrictions.
Removing restrictions and riding a scooter without having the appropriate drivers license is illegal. There are heavy fines and you might loose your license when get caught or involved in an accident! Custom restriction to comply with local drivers license laws Speed limits and legal restrictions These are the most common restrictions applied to scooters nowadays and probably the main reason why you are reading this post. In order to comply with various speed limit laws for scooters the manufacturer needs to ensure that the scooter does not go faster than the allowed speed in the country it is sold.
On the other hand the manufacturer wants to build engines that perform well in terms of acceleration. This is often contradictory to the speed limit requirement as fast accelerating scooters also reach high top speeds.
In oder to stay within the limits but still have a well performing engine various restrictions are applied to the engine so the scooter can receive its road legal certification. The following restrictions can be found on pretty much every scooter sold nowadays and can be split into two categories:. Restrictions through added parts. Restrictions through replaced parts What’s meant by “added parts”? These are the good restrictions. By good I mean these can be removed easily without spending a single penny (given the right tools). Examples for these are variomatic rings, exhaust dummy pipes and carburetor opening restrictions.
Restrictions through replaced parts on the other hand can’t be simply removed. They usually require the purchase of an unrestricted part or considerable amount of modification. Examples for these parts are: electronically limited CDIs, diameter restricted inlet manifolds and increased length exhaust manifolds. Derestricting the scooter will increase performance considerably allowing for a much faster acceleration and also a higher top speed (usually about 75km/h). Fuel consumption usually increases but in some cases can be lower or remains the same.
The most common scooter engine restrictions Exhaust restriction The exhaust restriction is applied to most scooters and can be easily removed. All that is needed is a little grinder (ideally Dremel, Proxxon, or other micro grinders). Most stock exhaust feature a dummy pipe on the exhaust manifold whereas restricted after market exhausts have a little diameter restriction welded into the down pipe.
The dummy pipe restriction In order to remove the dummy pipe simply cut off the pipe with a handsaw or a micro grinder. It should be cut off as close to the manifold as possible. The resulting hole in the exhaust needs to be closed. Welding a washer onto the hole should do the job. Alternatively it is also possible to buy unrestricted exhaust manifolds (e.g. From Piaggio). These are bolt on solutions and cost only about 20-30Euros.
If you want to derestrict in disguise you can weld the dummy pipe back onto the exhaust on top of the washer:) The exhaust diameter restriction The diameter restriction is often found on street legal after market exhausts (Stage6 Replica, Yasuni Z, LeoVince, Tecnigas, etc.). Removing the restriction does not require any welding. Simply grind off the small welding spot that hold the restriction in place and it can be easily removed. To avoid that the restriction piece falls into the manifold when grinding you should build a hook out of some wire and secure its position. Other exhaust restrictions There are some other exhaust restrictions. For example some stock exhausts use a very long exhaust manifold that decreases the gas flow and therefore resulting in reduced performance.
These can only be replaced by buying a shortened exhaust manifold. Another exhaust restriction can sometimes be found in the exhaust silencer of aftermarket exhausts (Yasuni). It can be removed when disassembling the silencer. Exhaust tip diameter restriction Variomatic ring restriction The variomatic ring restriction prevents the engine transmission from reaching its maximum gear ratio, thus limiting the top speed of the engine. It should be removed as the ring causes the engine to run at a high engine revenue speed most of the time (imagine you cycle on a bike always on the first three gears even though the bike has seven). The ring also grinds into the aluminium of the variomatic over time causing it to break. Removing the variomatic ring is difficult as the variomatic is sitting on the crankshaft which spins when trying to unscrew the nut.
The safest way to block the crankshaft is to buy the special blocking tool. It costs only a few bucks and will save you a lot of trouble. Once the variomatic nut is removed simply take out the ring that is sitting in between the two pulleys. It usually is about 5mm thick.
When reassembling the variomatic the crankshaft nut should be secured using Loctite (medium) or a similar threadlocking adhesive. If possible a torque wrench should be used when tightening the nut at 40-50nm depending on your scooter model. Even though it’s tempting, the use of piston stoppers should be avoided. They can break the piston, cylinder head and even damage the crank shaft when too much force is applied.
Have a look on eBay for the proper blocking tools available for your scooter. A properly blocked variomatic ready for opening Carburator restriction The carburator is responsible for supplying a mix of petrol and air to the cylinder. It is one of the most technical parts of an engine.
When the air/petrol mix supply is restricted the engine cannot perform at its full power. Throttle opening and air supply restrictions are often found on scooter carburators in order to restrict performance. Throttle opening restriction The throttle opening restriction prevents the rider to open the carburator completely. A limiter within the carburator blocks the movement of the slider.
Simply remove the limiter and you will be able to fully open the slider. Petrol is poisonous and causes cancer. Ensure wearing gloves and don’t breath in the petrol gases when working on the carburator. Carburator air supply restriction The air supply restriction is very simple to find. Simply remove the air filter hose from your carburator and look out for plates that prevent the air flowing through your carburator when its throttle is opened. Intake manifold restriction The intake manifold needs to be replaced when using a bigger carburator.
However, sometimes the manifold is even to small for the stock carburator. A stock carburator usually has a diameter of 12mm. This means that the manifold at its smallest point needs to have a diameter of at least 12mm as well. Otherwise the carburator can not work at its maximum performance.
Cheap replacement manifolds can be found on eBay for around 15€. They are a good investment and can be used for carburators up to 21mm diameter in size. Air filter restrictions It is a bit of an open story if air filter restrictions are really applied. Mostly the complex air routing of air filter increases filtering performance therefore allowing the engine to perform well under any conditions (be it a heavy monsun in India or a sandstorm in the desert). Some people say these routing channels limit air flow and therefore act as a restriction. I suggest to not modify the air filter or cut out parts.
The only parts acceptable to remove from an air filter are diameter restricting nozzles as pictured below. These can be assumed safe to remove without affecting the life time of an engine. Be careful when modifying the air filter box. More fresh air in the mix increases the temperature during the ignition process.
The carburator needs to be adjusted according to the amount of air it is processing. If not done correctly the engine might overheat and can be heavily damaged. Air filter box restriction Electronically limited CDI’s The electronically limited CDI is one of the few restrictions that does not affect the overall engine performance over time. The CDI is a black piece of electronics that handles the ignition process of the scooter. When reaching a certain engine revenue the limited CDI simply stops the engine from revving any higher by stopping ignition of the spark plug any faster. Buying an unrestricted CDI overcomes this limitation. Please note: It is not possible to derestrict the CDI by yourself.
Please do not cut any wires or try opening the CDI. All that happens will be, that you simply break it. Just purchase an unrestricted one for 50Euros and everything will be ok! An unrestricted CDI Q&A Can derestricting my scooter break the engine? In most cases derestricting the scooter not only improves the performance of the engine it also allows it to perform better, longer.
This is due to some restricting parts not allowing the engine to perform as it is was designed to. The variomatic ring grinds into the aluminium of the variomatic over time causing it to break, or the exhaust restrictions increasing the overall of the engine temperature by blocking the gas flow. On the other hand when derestricting the engine it should always be ensured to setup the carburetor accordingly. Especially the main jet might need to be increased to comply with the higher engine revenues and the increased amount of fresh air supply. Your local scooter shop (if it’s a good one) should know what adjustments need to be done after derestricting the engine.
Do I loose my warranty when derestricting my scooter? This depends on the vendor and manufacturer of your scooter. Piaggio for example gives full warranty when derestricting the scooter through a certified vendor/repair shop.
For other brands this might not be the case. Best get in touch with your manufacturer or your local scooter shop and ask them if derestricting your engine has an affect on your warranty. Which Scooters have which Restriction applied? This is just a general note and depends on your scooter model. Also, this is only valid for the 50cc models. There are some bigger engine scooters with restrictions but it is very untypical for them to be restricted. Piaggio 2-Stroke Piaggio engines usually have the dummy pipe and the variator ring applied.
The airbox is relatively small and can be tuned but it is not necessary if you keep your engine stock and just want to derestrict it! Piaggio Injection The Piaggio Injection models utilize a restricted CDI. Minarelli / Yamaha 2-Stroke The Yamaha Minarelli engines have a dummy pipe and a variator ring applied, similar to the Piaggio 2 Strokes. China Engines (GY, etc.) Almost all China engines have the limited CDI installed. Some also come with a variator ring and the carburator air intake restriction! Honda Engines Honda engines are often carburator restricted.
Either by air intake or by not allowing the full opening of the throttle. You can also find variator rings in some engines! How about you? What do you think about derestricting the engine? Have you done it? Got any tricks?
Let us know in the comments or the forum and I will answer for sure! Hi, I have a yamaha YN50 neos 49cc 2011 4 STROKE scooter. It runs great and has only done 2500 miles but it will only do 29mph flat out even down a hill! It is obviously restricted somewhere, do you know where the restriction is and possibly how to remove it?
If it needs a CDI then please tell me which one to get and where from. The restriction definitely does not lie in the front pully wheel because there is no restrictive washer in there, i have checked. I would greatly appreciate your help if you know anything about this topic. Thank you very much. Hi Dylan, Unfortunately Honda makes their very own engines just for their scooters.
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They are incompatible with other engines on the market and therefore less attractive for Western tuning companies. There are some tuners in Japan that make products for Honda engines but rather for the newer models (Dio, Zoomer, etc). Still a lot of tuners prefer to do an engine swap to a Minarelli engine as it’s easier to find parts for them:-/ You can try tracking down by looking for the engine rather than your model. It is a NH 125 Honda engine. Altogether I recommend to get another (newer) scooter model as tuning parts for these old Hondas are very expensive if you can find any at all:-/ Best, D.
Just finished reading the ‘How to de-restrict a 50cc Scooter’ page, and i must say that I’ve just learn’t more in the past 15 minutes, than i have in the 2 years of riding & reading nothing but $H T£ on the net. I call it this as you’ve just clarified every issue I’ve been having over the past few months as a newbie whilst trying to de-restrict / re-tune my own nifty50! They’re all either yobs wanting to outrun the 5 0, or either have the understanding and are lax in presenting it, or they just don’t care for the fine collaboration of the machine parts to enhance performance whilst maintaining it’s longevity. At least YOU have an understanding of the operation & function of the parts you talk about, and describe them in a manner that is easy to comprehend. Even for someone like me who today, for the first time, had a go at de-restricting my variator – with little success. This page has stopped me dead in my tracks and made me re-evaluate everything i thought i knew about scooters! Please Please Please Send all like links to the supplied e-mail address!!!
In return, as a sign of respect for finally organizing the mass of de-fragmented scooter info in my head, i will recommend visiting this page in every forum i’m listed with. Hi Greenhorn, Thanks so much for your comment!
I wrote this article with the goal, of having a complete overview about the different forms of restrictions applied to 50cc engines nowadays. I appreciate it that you like it so much.
You will be happy to hear that I am currently working on the relaunch of Tuningmatters.com. The new page will be a lot easier to navigate and community features will be much improved. Thank you for recommending the page and I hope to see you on TuningMatters.com 2.0! Best, Daniel. Hi Daniel, I just had a read of your de restriction page and it was very helpful. I have 2012 Piaggio typhoon 50 and at present it will do approx 65-70kmh max on the flat and 30-50kmh uphill and id really like your advice on how to make my scooter better at travelling up hills.
Currently the scooter has had the carby rejetted and some sort of derestriction on the stock exhaust by the previous owner. Any advice or info on what I should do to increase my scooters performance especially for the annoying hills would be appreciated. Lookin forward to v2.0! But as my name suggests, i am still relatively new to all this, and so follows the first of my quandaries Still with the nifty (JC 50 QT-20 sudoku) No dummy pipe fitted, unsure bout other exhaust res’s as no weldin equip’ available, vario’ (? Wedding?) ring previously removed, no slider openin res’s, no carb air supply res’s, intake manifold size unchecked as further reading required Bought it @ £150. Minimal damage to seat, fairings, etc but also dmg to air filter, was virtually hangin off where the piping exits the filter heading towards the carb.
Before i noticed this i was getting a good 45mph Level Road, after i noticed i made a judgement call to seal it best i could til can afford new one, so when fully sealed max mph is reduced to 30-33 LR. I’ve a fairly good understandin of the importance of o2 in the combustion process, and how sealing up the filter hole would invariably lead to a loss in power output, but it is not this that vexes me?! When i removed the vario’ to inspect the ring, with two lengths of bicycle chain linked together and attached round the center stand structure for leverage by the way, i immediately noticed that the ‘travel line’ of the belt was a poor 2/3rds of the way up the var’ and looked like it had never even been close to full potential. This lead me to the conclusion that the thing was restricted in some other manor, so before coming here i trawled the net and found info on carb jet cleaning, jet needle adjustment and air/fuel calibration among others.
After doing the above jobs i still noticed no further top end addition, although i did solve the bogging issue through the acceleration range. Hi, It’s really difficult to find information about your scooter. Do you know what engine it has? If there is no distance ring between the two vario plates and the belt does not reach the top, this could have several reasons.
Your CDI is restricted and does not allow to exceed a certain rpm (VERY COMMON ON CHINESE SCOOTERS) 2. The belt is too narrow. You would need to check what the default width of the belt is, and use a gauge to verify this (or better buy a new belt right away, but you still need to know the size) 3. The rear pulley acts weirdly and doesn’t fully close, hence does not allow the belt to travel all the way up. Variator weights are so light, that the given engine speed does not produce enough g-fore to pull the variator plates together 2-4 are very unusual.
I would go with 1. And buy an unrestricted CDI. You can’t modify them yourself but they are fairly cheap (about 30-40 euros). Hope this helps!
Best, Daniel. You’re right it is difficult! Thinkin it would just be easier to put the thing on e-bay or auto-trader an buy me a 125!
It’s confirmed as being a ‘Long Case – GY6 139QMB’ engine according to the chassis and: And a ‘JCM139QMB’ according to: 1. CDI – Obviously ‘pink wire’ had no effect, but would i be right in deducing that de-restricted CDI’s have only 5 wires regardless of the pin count? Either way, I’m swaying towards this as being the problem due to it never excelling past 7.5-8 thou’ rev’s! Am lookin into buyin an unrestricted one at the mo, seems a lot of people buyin em on eBay an buyin the wrong one’s.
Don’t wanna make the same mistake! – you mentioned ‘You can’t modify them yourself’. Please be a little more specific as to the type of modification(s) and the reason(s) why. This will help in clarifying my understanding of the CDI, as i’m only JUST learning how it functions 2. BELT (default width = TBA)(verified width = TBA) – never thought about it being too narrow?! 2006 harley sportster 883 reviews. Would this simply be a case of wear-an-tear? I mean bike is only 3yrs old, and has more than likely never bin changed, which begs the question of the longevity of belts?
My initial worry was that the belt looked like it had too much slack, as if it had been over-stretched, but i know virtually nothing bout ’em. Will replace with new one anyway for DIRECT comparison for future reference. REAR PULLEY – There is a ‘squealing’ noise coming from around the rear wheel when I initially start up and pull away, the same noise as you sometimes hear on a car as it pulls away, but i might have mistakenly put this down to the brake needing to be replaced, although the brake has poor stopping distance! I’m now wondering if it could be the pulley making this noise due to some kind of interference. Be it rust, damage, lack of lubrication, or something else??? Time to go on the hunt!
ROLLERS (weight: TBA) – My bro the mechanic, so to speak, who grew up fixin scooters is my only source of experience in this field and i ask him bout anythin first, but when i asked him bout the rollers bein too small an affectin the g’s on the plates resulting in not fully closin, he looked at me with a look as to say ‘what $h t is he chattin’ and replied with an answer that suggests that any weight rollers should automatically fully close the plates And when it was in the garage for it’s MOT last week I asked the mech’ the same Q and got the opposite answer! P.S – MOT last week showed no indication of pulley trouble, or anything else for that matter! Also didn’t notice much wear on rollers when last looked but will double check anyway While I get the weights & measures TBA’d above, here’s another one for ye Whilst running & idol my rev’s won’t sit still. After numerous attempts to set the carb idol screw to bout 1,800 rev’s (1.8k) which is just enough to stop me mirrors vibrating and the thing takin off whilst stationary, it just keeps on fluctuating.
I can just be sittin on it not touchin a thing an the rev needle will raise to 2k – 2.2k then drop either back to or below 1.8k and bounce about like this almost constantly, but only while idol. 3 times today it cut out on me at the lights goin to & from work because the rev’s dropped too low. Hi G, Sorry only now saw your comment. Been a bit busy here recently 1. CDI The problem with those CDI’s is that they are a) not documented, so you’d need to reverse engineer the circuit yourself and b) they are usually one big piece of glue underneath the plastic. Removing the glue will take forever and I think it is unlikely that you are able to free the circuit without breaking it.
That’s what I meant by being unable to modify them yourself:) 2. Belt Belt life depends more on the usage raher than the age. But I believe you should replace after every 10.000km. But there are a lot of variables here that affect belt life. Sure thing to get a caliper and measure from time to time.
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Rear Pulley I believe the sound comes from either the pulley spring, or the clutch springs. Still, keeping the rear pulley well lubricated is essential. Rollers Not sure what you mech meant, but you need the right rollers for your enigne configuration. Too light and the engine will overrev, too heavy and the engine won’t rev enough when accelerating out of corners. Idle Speed This needs to be adjusted when the engine is warm. Also, run some carb cleaner through the carb and clean the air filter.
Drops in idle are often related to dirt in the carb. New spark plug wouldn’t hurt neither! Hope this helps! And yes, China Scooter’s ain’t so good, a Piaggio or Japanese model is certainly less of a hassle:-/. I’m curious, also. I found some circuit diagrams of CDI’s on an image search and they seem pretty simple.
They practically could be made entirely from mechanical devices like cams – no IC’s and only a few switches (transistors/SCR’s). You basically need an oscillator, a way to control it’s speed, a way to control duty, and advance phase(‘advance timing’ in ECU terms)? These devices follow some kind of voodoo for the average person kind of like the old AC/Heater timer controllers about 25 years ago. The kind that had epoxy not to keep moisture out, but human eyes.;) On Google, this found the correct schematics: gy6 cdi mod For practical intents and purposes, unless you know a lot about electronics and EXACTLY the schematic of yours, CDI’s are pretty hard to clone and even harder to mod.
To modify it, you’d need to identify which transistor controls the maximum RPM’s, and what components set the frequency at which the transistor stops allowing the oscillator to speed up. TBH, if I was to do this properly, I’d use a PLL with the appropriate timing diagrams to design a CDI. It’s normally more expensive to use more packages, even if the total cost of the chips is more. This is why motherboards on PC’s have one big chip for 90% of functionality (in addition to RAM/CPU/other modular parts). Not sure if this cost-per-part-to-solder issue is true for simpler devices, though. Surely, the Chinese bike companies would know which is most cost-effective. That’s one thing they have in common with US companies – cost-price analysis.;) In theory, it would be possible to black-box reverse-engineer a clone of CDI’s based on oscilloscope traces.
They follow a pretty simple (and thus easy to identify) formula, obviously. Heck, it would probably be easy to make a near-universal one given the network theory of economics/engineering that says that over 90% of designs are using at most 10% of components and design choices. I bet most bikes use AC CDI’s for example.
Or more common sense language: These engines all need mostly the same timing because they’re all GY6 clones! Thanks for gettin back to me D I see what you mean now bout the CDI modification – or lack of. Never even considered opening it up and by-passing the restriction, which is, i’m guessing, the mod you’re talkin bout!? Either way i’ll be getin a de-restricted one. Am reaching 17.5k on the clock an i bet the belt ain’t bin changed yet so there’s another new part for the ever-growing list. Will lube the pulley.
Cheers for the info on the springs makin the noise, wouldn’t have bin able to diagnose that myself. In the case of the rollers I finally got my bro the mech to come on a little ride the other day, see he’s got a nifty himself (I forget the make an model) and it’s rapid to say the least and i wanted to see how it compared to mine.
Suffice to say I was put to shame by my little bro for the first time in my life as he out-done me on both top-end and acceleration. When we finally stopped for a chat, i had a go of his myself so i could see how mine should ride with no restrictions in place and the thing nearly took off from under my asre the acceleration was that fast! Now although his nifty is noticeably smaller in size to mine, I’m having to push myself off when starting up even the smallest of inclines, my god i went to my grandmothers the other day an she lives on a fairly steep hill an as i was leaving i couldn’t even get the bike to move up hill with me on it! I had to push the frakin thing up to a lesser incline the shame I don’t know the differences in performance between the two but he was on a 2 stroke compared to my 4. Anyway the idle speed you mentioned makes sense as my air filter is still holier than the pope an i CAN imagine their being debris gettin in but just can’t afford any new parts at the mo as am recently outa the job so it’l have to wait Although I haven’t yet put carb cleaner through the system, I did think there might be some debris cloggin the jets or somethin else, so took the carb apart an ensured all openings were free of dirt by threading fuse wire through them. Though i didn’t think to check if the idle had settled at the time, regardless the problem is still there Please forgive my naivety in the next sentence, it’s just the way i was brought up, I’m in no way racist but how DO you tell a chink bike from a jap?
They all look the same! Listen, thanks man anyway. I know i can’t half go on, but you’ve bin a god send in helping me understand this as a greenhorn, there’s just so much to take in with so little explanation other than here.
Will try the recommendations you suggest an be back in touch soon, hopefully with news that i’ve just come outa hospital coz you’ve solved all my problems an i’ve crashed the frackin thing into a lampost on take off;). No further news to add as of yet altho did hit 50mph yesterday in the liverpool tunnel (down hill) on my nifty;) might have gotten ahead of myself here but just picked up a suzuki ts125x as a first geared project, as never ridden one b4, and am having trouble finding the relevant service manuals and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction? The bike is in pieces and needs to be rebuilt from the ground up, so i generally need to know where everything goes including wiring diagrams?
I currently have the pdf manuals: 1) Suzuki TS125 – Service Manual 2) YamahaDT20097(4AN8) french version And am watching the videos @: 1) The manuals are useless but the videos, altho for the YZ125, show me the basics If there is no direction you can point me in then maybe you know of other bikes that match the specs of the TS so I can look their manuals and vids up instead? Most important is the wiring diagrams tho, as the loom i have for it is seperate from the bike and has wires that are cut and need replacing! As allways, thanx. Hi Arrie, Have you gone through the article and checked which of the restrictions apply to your model? There really isn’t much else out there, than the described restrictions! Tho, it might be that the engine is really just crap and won’t go faster even tho it’s derestricted.
In that case you would need to do more serious stuff like exhaust porting and engine flowing. Tho, you need special hardware to do this, like a dremel and grinders. Buying these usually will cost more than buying a 70cc kit off of ebay and learning how to do it properly will also take a lot of time. Those restrictions from the manufacturer are kind of funny in Colorado. Did I say funny?
I meant pointless. Here, just the thinner air does a number on your effective HP.
I was looking here, for info just to get the bike performing to the levels it would in a higher-pressure, warmer climate, with a lack of hills with 10% inclines. It won’t even get up hills, yet alone drive at dangerous speeds! Thanks for the information – don’t have the money right now but it’s useful to plan with. If we decide to do any tuning mods, we’ll have to look into Colorado’s rules and if we need to get a MC designation on our licenses. Now to find out why it’s not charging – my bet’s on the almost constant rain that we’ve been receiving lately. Hi Marco, The Honda 4 Stroke engines are not restricted in the common way.
Apparently they are built for maximum fuel efficiency and to not go faster than 30mph. There is two things you can do: 1. Get an unrestricted CDI (apparently the stock CDI is limited).
However, this will not make your scooter faster, but only allow it to rev higher. Tho the stock engine won’t have the power to rev higher by default. Get a tuning variator (Malossi Multivar or Polini) as this will allow for increased revs and better adjustment of the transmission using lighter rollers. It will increase speed to about 35-40 I suppose, but won’t be much of an improvement when going up hill.
Hope this helps! Thanks for this great guide! I have a ’98 Yamaha that is dangerously slow going up any sort of hill. It reaches 45 on the flat (even with the variator restriction), but will slow to under 20 on even a moderate gradient. Following your guide I have now removed the variator ring, and looked for the exhaust restriction on the Leo Vince Touring, but it was not present. Anyway the engine still bogs down after the initial acceleration, in fact it has the opposite of the very sharp 2 stroke acceleration I was used to with my previous ’96 Piaggio. I can perhaps get a hardly noticeable increase in power if I use a little (manual) choke.
What should I check/change/adjust next? Many thanks – Paul. Hi Bryan, Congrats on the purchase:) Most Asian scooters have a restricted CDI, which means they won’t go faster, even when going downhill. You will need to buy a new one here. The Naraku ones from Racing Planet are cheap and good! The other things to do are described in the article.
The scooter most likely has a variator ring installed. Remove that and you will get some more top end.
Also have a look for the exhaust restirctions. Ultimately it is best to get a 70cc kit and some matching exhaust. You will find a lot of information on those on my site:). I have found that on Tao Tao Scooters and Roketa, as well as most other Chinese scooters too; that removing the black plastic plate between the cylinder head and intake manifold greatly increases the power of the scooter, that combined with removing the air box, blocking off the emissions system with a vacuum cap on the intake manifold, replacing the main jet with a #95 jet and installing a UNI Filter is a cheap and extremely effective way of getting tons more power out of your engine. By doing those few things you will have an extremely noticeable increase in power.
Peugeot Speedfight 2 50cc
Hi david i live in pakistan and have a yamaha junoon yd 100 and its cdi has gone faulty.the original is 1.too expensive 2.not availble any where near to me 3.its quality is not good as compared to the original one that came with the bike so it will probs go faulty again.what im thinking is of installing cg 125’s cdi and coil with my own bikenow what i wanted to know is what are the disadvantages of having too much spark in the spark plug.i mean im installing a heavy cdi in place of original one. “A catalyst has to operate at a high temperature to perform in its intended way. Unfortunately high temperatures should try to be avoided when increasing performance (increasing temperatures equal a loss of energy into heat).” Hey Daniel, unfortunately, you dont have a clue what is going on there, so here it is: High temperatures, of course, can not be avoided, be it in engine or exhaust, be it stock scooter or not. What is going on is that unburnt fuel from engine gets burned in catalyst. UNBURNT – so, of course there is no “loss of energy”. There is only loss of pollution to air. Aftermarket exhausts do not have catalysts for one reason only – profit of manufacturers.
Again, you get no performance boost if you take out the catalyst and let unburnt fuel pollute the air that we breath, instead of getting it burned in the catalyst. 2T engines are polluting much more than 4T. Also, removing catalyst from exhaust is illegal. Thank you for the information combined in such a nice article! I really struggle for information about my 4 stroke Yamaha aerox 2015. It has a Minarelli 50cc engine.
According to my official papers the engine is NS-50F. Unfortunately after a long-long time checking here and there, trying to find an unrestricted CDI for my scooter I couldn’t even find any info not only about that but also about my engine in general. The local dealer is really uncooperative and refuses to provide any info on the restriction itself (i.e. What kind, where, how many etc). I wrote to Racing planet but they do not support this bike. They don’t carry any parts for it.
I’m really stuck with trying to find solution and its getting really frustrating how I can’t overcome this stupid problem. Can you please, please, please give me any info about my bike and how to get rid of this restriction? Thanks in advance Martin. Hello Daniel! I own a TGB Bullet RS. And its restricted, though I’m not sure if it’s the CDI box.
I’ve spoken to many people about this, and they’ve said that it isn’t CDI restricted because their “TGB Jetfighter” or other TGB scooter wasn’t CDI restricted. When i drive on flat surface my moped comes up to 50 KPH and stops there, it sounds like something is stopping the rev because it sounds like “drrrrrrr” (bad impression but yeah), it sounds like it wants to go faster. I have searched on ALOT of websites, and i haven’t found a single derestricted CDI for my Bullet RS. I’ve only found CDI’s for TGB Akros, Jetfighter etc etc. And those CDI’s have 6 pins, which also mine has. I’ve asked the shops about the CDIs, and they are saying it doesn’t work with the Bullet RS. Oh well, sorry for rambling, hopefully you’ve got a clue about how my moped is restricted, because being LOCKED down in 50 KPH is very annoying.
If you know of any CDI for my scooter (IF its CDI restricted ofc) PLEASE link it, I live in Europe btw. OK, Daniel My Chinese 50cc 4 stroke scooter already hauls ass Sort of.
It is an old scooter and it comes out of the hole hard esp when the clutch is cold. I tried to adjust the needle in the carb but it’s non adjustable Clutch locks up at 4200 rpm and revs up to 7800-8000rpm before the variator starts to expand and “shift” Drops down to 6k and slow to build rpm back up to redline which is 8k. It is not limited CDI as I have run 91-92k rpm at over 50mph. I’ve built many engines in past years Cars Twin turbo 300zx, Corvettes, Porsche v8 928s4 etcand crotch rockets as well as dirt bikes. Although I have zero experience with these seemingly disposable 2 wheelers Everything breaks Lol. Here is my questioni don’t understand how removing the air box will cause the engine to bog down bad It won’t take the gas like it did with the restrictive air box I’m stumped.I placed a piece of tape over the intake that connected to the air box and that fixed the problem. I don’t understand how a carburetor can get to much air.
I covered about one third of the rubber intake tube opening with tape to duplicate the restriction of the air box. Also I don’t know what I’m looking for as far as performanceI love speed and if I could get this little beast to do a wheelie I’d be in heaven. I want more accelerationI weigh about 185lbs Can you please give me your thoughts. I just can’t wrap my head around a carb getting to much air Really Lol Thanks. I need help.